Yeah, I guess I had just gotten used to the mess, and all; habituated to the graffiti on the wall, so to speak. Wasn't till I did an impromptu video of Ratchet (my dawg--see video) that it really dawned on me--what a frackin' mess!
Funny how one gets used to such a mess; sawdust and construction materials, tools and cords all over the place--even my stove out away from the wall I was 'working on'...
Geez. I was putting the vid up on YouTube when I became conscious/aware of what an innocent bystander might think of the place <shudder>. Hopefully, I will get to feeling better soon, and get on with the remodeling of the 'West-Wing' (E-Wing turned out sweeet). Shame is a great motivator?
Lol! Am I now a self-imposed victim of 'GC' (aka guilt cleaning)???
I think I am ;(
Wish me luck...
GT
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Congressional Reform Act of 2011(revised)
Wake up, America! The so-called Super Committee has not even attempted serious discussions to cut spending in any way, so neither party gets the blame when across-the-board cuts will be mandated--a political 'trick-or-treat' (trick, only) on American public...No gonadic fortitude found in Congress; FAIL!
HERE'S THE SOLUTION:
The Congressional Reform Act of 2011
1. No Tenure / No Pension. A Congressman collects a salary while in office and receives no pay when they are out of office.
2. Congress (past, present &future) participates in Social Security. All funds in the Congressional retirement fund move to the Social Security system immediately. All future funds flow into the Social Security system, and Congress participates with the American people. It may not be used for any other purpose.
3. Congress can purchase their own retirement plan, just as all Americans do.
4. Congress will no longer vote themselves a pay raise. Congressional pay will rise by the CPI used to adjust Social Security (include food/fuel!)
5. Congress loses their current health care system and participates in the same health care system as the American people.
6. REQUIRE A BALANCED BUDGET EVERY YEAR, WHILE DECREASING SPENDING TO PAY OFF ALL CURRENT DEBT BY 2020; ANY SPENDING AND/OR TAX PROPOSALS MUST BE FULLY FUNDED, NOT INCREASE THE DEBT, AND REQUIRE 2/3 VOTE FOR PASSAGE
7. All contracts with past and present Congressmen are void effective 1/1/12. Serving in Congress is an honor, not a career. Congress must equally abide by all laws they impose on the American people. The Founding Fathers envisioned citizen legislators, so ours should serve their term(s), then go home and back to work.
8. Outlaw lobbying outside of the direct constituency of each member
9. Eliminate ALL political contributions, with the exception of a small reelection fund provided by the government, but with equal access to a designated amount of free TV time for ALL candidates; this would also apply to presidential candidates. Government by the people, and for the people, not special interests!
10. Post all proposed legislation to public website[s], with impartial &/or bipartisan interpretations, to expose potential boondoggles, set-asides, and special favors, BEFORE they are voted upon--LET SOME SUNSHINE INTO THE PROCESS!! TAKE AMERICA BACK!!
GT
HERE'S THE SOLUTION:
The Congressional Reform Act of 2011
1. No Tenure / No Pension. A Congressman collects a salary while in office and receives no pay when they are out of office.
2. Congress (past, present &future) participates in Social Security. All funds in the Congressional retirement fund move to the Social Security system immediately. All future funds flow into the Social Security system, and Congress participates with the American people. It may not be used for any other purpose.
3. Congress can purchase their own retirement plan, just as all Americans do.
4. Congress will no longer vote themselves a pay raise. Congressional pay will rise by the CPI used to adjust Social Security (include food/fuel!)
5. Congress loses their current health care system and participates in the same health care system as the American people.
6. REQUIRE A BALANCED BUDGET EVERY YEAR, WHILE DECREASING SPENDING TO PAY OFF ALL CURRENT DEBT BY 2020; ANY SPENDING AND/OR TAX PROPOSALS MUST BE FULLY FUNDED, NOT INCREASE THE DEBT, AND REQUIRE 2/3 VOTE FOR PASSAGE
7. All contracts with past and present Congressmen are void effective 1/1/12. Serving in Congress is an honor, not a career. Congress must equally abide by all laws they impose on the American people. The Founding Fathers envisioned citizen legislators, so ours should serve their term(s), then go home and back to work.
8. Outlaw lobbying outside of the direct constituency of each member
9. Eliminate ALL political contributions, with the exception of a small reelection fund provided by the government, but with equal access to a designated amount of free TV time for ALL candidates; this would also apply to presidential candidates. Government by the people, and for the people, not special interests!
10. Post all proposed legislation to public website[s], with impartial &/or bipartisan interpretations, to expose potential boondoggles, set-asides, and special favors, BEFORE they are voted upon--LET SOME SUNSHINE INTO THE PROCESS!! TAKE AMERICA BACK!!
GT
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Prepping to Fail (Part 3): Food Storage Basics
Thusfar, our 'fail' scenario has addressed a limited, short-term crisis; things to prepare for in months 1-3. One main assumption was that essential services like water, power, and gas would remain intact, short-term. However, an old military saying is "...ASSUME makes an ASS out of 'U' and 'ME'" (see also the hand-filling issue posted prior). Rather than making fatal errors via assumption[s], it is better to prepare for the worst, or at least, for less-than-optimal conditions. Therefore, one must be prepared to adapt to shortages or loss of one or more of these essential services.
Although a continuous outage of gas, and/or electricity will be daunting, there are offsets and behavioral adaptations which can be made to mitigate same. Adaptations to loss of potable water source[s] are more difficult, but I believe manageable, also with preparation. These adaptations will be discussed in later posts. However, without a long-term strategy for food storage, the aforementioned adapts simply fail; without food, fugetaboutit. So, this critical survival aspect will be focused upon now...
FOOD STORAGE: SHORT-MED-LONG TERM
We talked about stocking 3 months-worth of food as a minimum, previously, as short-term storage. However, given that most items ['non-perishables'] mentioned herein generally store ± 1 year, henceforth, for purposes of this blog, we will designate ± 1 yr as short-term (ST), 2-5 yrs as Med-term (MT), and 5 yr+ as long-term (LT)
A) Short-term:
We previously discussed many S-T food issues, and these included stocking up on food items which are 'non-perishable', bought in bags, boxes, jars and cans. Many of these items will last 1-5 years, if stored in a cool, dry place. Some items will range up to 5 years or more, as purchased.
One should try to get the freshest sources of such goods, as hinted by their 'best-by' dates (dates often printed or stamped on the bag/box/can). Note that in order to rotate stock, the older items will be on the shelves, and often arranged to be most accessible (outer areas of shelves, etc). One can often mitigate by looking to the back of a stack (etc.), and checking dates (do this for milk , dairy, etc., now, regardless of storing). Note that 'best by' and 'sell by' dates are often merely recommendations or 'guidelines', not strictly denoting an item is 'bad' or spoiled, or inedible after such dates; 'use by' dates may be more tenable or accurate.
Keep in mind that the gub'ment likely has rules re: the dating, so they may just be approximations or 'guesstimates', and therefore dubious (eg., Back in the early '80's during military 'wargames' we only had C-rations to eat, many dating to the mid-50s). However, Inspect cans and containers for signs of age, dents, etc., and don't purchase any showing age or damage-related breakdown!!
Oxidation is the enemy, in most cases. Acidic foods tend to store well, but also tend to eat away at can linings, etc., over extended periods. Given this, it might be better to purchase tomato products, etc, in bottles or plastic containers (glass bottles w/o metal tops,for med-LT storage). However, as alluded to earlier, assuming reliable 1 year+ dates, most bag, boxes, and cans will be sufficient for short-term storage, up to or greater than 1 year, if stored properly. However, for ST storage (1mo=>1yr+), a kitchen cabinet, pantry, or closet (etc) will suffice.
B) Med-Long-Term:
Storage is extended in cool, dry places in which light is minimized; keep in mind that many items may be photo-reactive as well. However, oxidation is the biggest enemy. For extended storage, one would be better off if one were to have a dedicated storage area, as well as a means to reduce oxidation and spoilage factors. A dry basement, storm shelter (Okies) or 'root' cellar might be a good place to set up storage racks. However, keep things off the floor, at minimum, and storing in sealable plastic containers/5 gal. buckets is a good plan. Freeze-dried, and/or dehydrated foods offer the most extensive storage capabilities (claims up to 20 years). However, in truth, who wants to be eating 'crisis' food for such an extended time? I recommend getting some heirloom seeds and getting ready to farm-up, if need be. Some might have diminished capacity to do this (limitations), so I leave this in for discussion.
Two of the best ways to limit oxidation, and hence, extend storage times, are to employ secondary packaging techniques, and/or to utilize freeze-dried/dehydrated stocks; let us address the former, first...
1. Secondary Packaging:
This can be accomplished in two basic ways; double-packing and repackaging, though not mutually exclusive. Double-packing involves adding an extra layer of protection from the elements and oxidation. Repackaging is meant to replace the current packing method, which may limit its storage parameters. In either case, the main methods are vacuum-sealing, and/or using additional layers of protection.
a) Additional Layers:
Additional layers would be purposed towards extending storability, and/or separation of stocks for particular terms/needs. For example, packing several bags of beans, pasta, or rice into vacuum bags, and/or then into buckets (eg., 5-gal), perhaps with applicable sauces/seasonings, and so on. If one has a good idea as to how much of particular foods will be required in particular increments of time, it can help organize stocks. However, the main goal is preserving and extending shelf-life. Beans, rice, and pastas come in bags for limited storage, and by double-bagging, etc., the shelf lives are extended. This is especially true if they are vacuum-sealed. Adding packets of oxygen absorbers inside the vac-packs, or outside them, when included in a bucket or other sealable container, ensures even greater extension of food usability.
Vacuum sealers are readily available locally and via internet sales, as are bags, buckets, etc. I would recommend getting a better vacuum unit which has greater bag-size capacity, and more features, like a capacity to use rolled bags, which are more economical, and/or ability to seal jars, via accessories. "Cheap" units may not prove to be cheap, in the long run. Decent units can be had for under $150.00, and better or more commercial capacity units hundreds or more.
Shop around on the internet to get an idea how much bags are, by size, or rolls, and get plenty to save $$. There are many grades of bags, and thicknesses/materials. Mylar bags can be used for extending storage, and they are tough, reusable, and provide light protection as well. They are not cheap, however. I will explore this in more depth later, after I have purchased a decent vacuum unit and have tried a few alternatives...
C.A.B. alert: Some storage items may even be 'scrounged' locally from grocers, bakeries, restaurants, etc., by asking for discarded buckets or 'dumpster-diving' for them--both at considerable savings. Food-grade buckets are optimal (identified by a "2" in a triangle on the bottom), and colored/dark ones of this grade even better. You will likely have to sanitize them yourself (bleach 1:10, vinegar, or disinfectant soap).
b. Repackaging:
One may wish to repack large or bulk-bought items into smaller or more discrete units, and/or to facilitate LT storage. This often includes adding additional layers, or simply replacing larger (bulk) packaging with smaller, more storable vacuum packs and bags. For example, bulk purchased beans, pastas and rice can be broken down into more manageable quantities; eg., into meal/day/week/monthly portions. Such smaller portions can then be vac-packed and/or mylar-packed/sealed, and then placed into 5 gal. buckets, for LT storage. Another example involves eliminating store-bought packaging, which can save storage space; eg., boxed goods like mac-n-cheese, oatmeal, dried mashed potatoes, etc. Often there is a lot of wasted airspace in these, adding oxidative potential, and limiting storage capacity (easier to pack vac-packs into a bucket than boxes).
The foregoing are simplified storage strategies for med-LT storage. As mentioned, they are not mutually exclusive, but both should utilize vacuum packing AND oxygen absorber packets in most cases, either in-bag, or in-bucket (or other sealed alternative[s] storage), to promote extended shelf-life. Keep in mind that your shelf-life corresponds to your food shelf-life, and so, don't cheap-out here.
2. Freeze-dried/Dehydrated Stocks:
These food stocks tend to be more expensive, and less-available, locally. They add variety and extend nutritive complexity to your diet, as well as adding flavor and viability. Claims of 20-year storage are fairly common, but may not be realistic.
However, they have a real place in any storage plan; many items that one needs to prepare other foods will come in such forms, and are readily stored for LT/MT/ST uses.
Although some of these are offered as 'meals', I personally would skip this concept, and simply order up a quantity of necessities (keep-it-simple-stupid). Such items include:
Powdered/freeze-dried/dehydrated milk, eggs (whole egg = optimal), butter, 'TVP' (textured &/or flavored vegetable protein--bacon, pork, beef, etc), cheese, coffee, creamer, and fruits (bananas/berries/etc.)
These are often needed for extending and flavoring other foods, and/or in preparing other dried- or powdered-form foods like biscuit, bread, and pancake mixes, and so on (with water). Powdered or freeze-dried eggs can be flavored with both cheese and milk and bacon bits (or flavored TVP) for increased palatability, for example. These items will store LT, and without refrigeration, in more compact form. I believe there is a wide variety of such foods available, so shop around, but don't get carried away (remember limited storage space!).
Such foods are often available in mylar/bags/cans; getting this stuff in bulk or in #10 cans might save some serious green, and can always be repacked into more realistic/discrete quantities, using your vacuum packer, etc (see above). I plan on getting a quantity of whole eggs, milk, butter, and ham/bacon-flavored TVP, at minimum. Given I am a 'coffee' nut, and that coffee takes up a LOT of space, I will likely invest some time into getting some freeze-dried stocks as well...
Right now, my goal is to get a 1 year supply of decent food stored up, and to get a vacuum sealer/supplies to get some of that into extended storage, as well as putting up some meats for ST freezing. I realize now that stocking up and freezing is really fail, without vac-packing, and even storing a lot of dry goods. Rotation of stock is essential, and storing foods that one actually eats is optimal. Might be doing some video blogging on this soon, though likely post Xmas...
GL and happy prepping! ;) Doit!
GT
Although a continuous outage of gas, and/or electricity will be daunting, there are offsets and behavioral adaptations which can be made to mitigate same. Adaptations to loss of potable water source[s] are more difficult, but I believe manageable, also with preparation. These adaptations will be discussed in later posts. However, without a long-term strategy for food storage, the aforementioned adapts simply fail; without food, fugetaboutit. So, this critical survival aspect will be focused upon now...
FOOD STORAGE: SHORT-MED-LONG TERM
We talked about stocking 3 months-worth of food as a minimum, previously, as short-term storage. However, given that most items ['non-perishables'] mentioned herein generally store ± 1 year, henceforth, for purposes of this blog, we will designate ± 1 yr as short-term (ST), 2-5 yrs as Med-term (MT), and 5 yr+ as long-term (LT)
A) Short-term:
We previously discussed many S-T food issues, and these included stocking up on food items which are 'non-perishable', bought in bags, boxes, jars and cans. Many of these items will last 1-5 years, if stored in a cool, dry place. Some items will range up to 5 years or more, as purchased.
One should try to get the freshest sources of such goods, as hinted by their 'best-by' dates (dates often printed or stamped on the bag/box/can). Note that in order to rotate stock, the older items will be on the shelves, and often arranged to be most accessible (outer areas of shelves, etc). One can often mitigate by looking to the back of a stack (etc.), and checking dates (do this for milk , dairy, etc., now, regardless of storing). Note that 'best by' and 'sell by' dates are often merely recommendations or 'guidelines', not strictly denoting an item is 'bad' or spoiled, or inedible after such dates; 'use by' dates may be more tenable or accurate.
Keep in mind that the gub'ment likely has rules re: the dating, so they may just be approximations or 'guesstimates', and therefore dubious (eg., Back in the early '80's during military 'wargames' we only had C-rations to eat, many dating to the mid-50s). However, Inspect cans and containers for signs of age, dents, etc., and don't purchase any showing age or damage-related breakdown!!
Oxidation is the enemy, in most cases. Acidic foods tend to store well, but also tend to eat away at can linings, etc., over extended periods. Given this, it might be better to purchase tomato products, etc, in bottles or plastic containers (glass bottles w/o metal tops,for med-LT storage). However, as alluded to earlier, assuming reliable 1 year+ dates, most bag, boxes, and cans will be sufficient for short-term storage, up to or greater than 1 year, if stored properly. However, for ST storage (1mo=>1yr+), a kitchen cabinet, pantry, or closet (etc) will suffice.
B) Med-Long-Term:
Storage is extended in cool, dry places in which light is minimized; keep in mind that many items may be photo-reactive as well. However, oxidation is the biggest enemy. For extended storage, one would be better off if one were to have a dedicated storage area, as well as a means to reduce oxidation and spoilage factors. A dry basement, storm shelter (Okies) or 'root' cellar might be a good place to set up storage racks. However, keep things off the floor, at minimum, and storing in sealable plastic containers/5 gal. buckets is a good plan. Freeze-dried, and/or dehydrated foods offer the most extensive storage capabilities (claims up to 20 years). However, in truth, who wants to be eating 'crisis' food for such an extended time? I recommend getting some heirloom seeds and getting ready to farm-up, if need be. Some might have diminished capacity to do this (limitations), so I leave this in for discussion.
Two of the best ways to limit oxidation, and hence, extend storage times, are to employ secondary packaging techniques, and/or to utilize freeze-dried/dehydrated stocks; let us address the former, first...
1. Secondary Packaging:
This can be accomplished in two basic ways; double-packing and repackaging, though not mutually exclusive. Double-packing involves adding an extra layer of protection from the elements and oxidation. Repackaging is meant to replace the current packing method, which may limit its storage parameters. In either case, the main methods are vacuum-sealing, and/or using additional layers of protection.
a) Additional Layers:
Additional layers would be purposed towards extending storability, and/or separation of stocks for particular terms/needs. For example, packing several bags of beans, pasta, or rice into vacuum bags, and/or then into buckets (eg., 5-gal), perhaps with applicable sauces/seasonings, and so on. If one has a good idea as to how much of particular foods will be required in particular increments of time, it can help organize stocks. However, the main goal is preserving and extending shelf-life. Beans, rice, and pastas come in bags for limited storage, and by double-bagging, etc., the shelf lives are extended. This is especially true if they are vacuum-sealed. Adding packets of oxygen absorbers inside the vac-packs, or outside them, when included in a bucket or other sealable container, ensures even greater extension of food usability.
Vacuum sealers are readily available locally and via internet sales, as are bags, buckets, etc. I would recommend getting a better vacuum unit which has greater bag-size capacity, and more features, like a capacity to use rolled bags, which are more economical, and/or ability to seal jars, via accessories. "Cheap" units may not prove to be cheap, in the long run. Decent units can be had for under $150.00, and better or more commercial capacity units hundreds or more.
Shop around on the internet to get an idea how much bags are, by size, or rolls, and get plenty to save $$. There are many grades of bags, and thicknesses/materials. Mylar bags can be used for extending storage, and they are tough, reusable, and provide light protection as well. They are not cheap, however. I will explore this in more depth later, after I have purchased a decent vacuum unit and have tried a few alternatives...
C.A.B. alert: Some storage items may even be 'scrounged' locally from grocers, bakeries, restaurants, etc., by asking for discarded buckets or 'dumpster-diving' for them--both at considerable savings. Food-grade buckets are optimal (identified by a "2" in a triangle on the bottom), and colored/dark ones of this grade even better. You will likely have to sanitize them yourself (bleach 1:10, vinegar, or disinfectant soap).
b. Repackaging:
One may wish to repack large or bulk-bought items into smaller or more discrete units, and/or to facilitate LT storage. This often includes adding additional layers, or simply replacing larger (bulk) packaging with smaller, more storable vacuum packs and bags. For example, bulk purchased beans, pastas and rice can be broken down into more manageable quantities; eg., into meal/day/week/monthly portions. Such smaller portions can then be vac-packed and/or mylar-packed/sealed, and then placed into 5 gal. buckets, for LT storage. Another example involves eliminating store-bought packaging, which can save storage space; eg., boxed goods like mac-n-cheese, oatmeal, dried mashed potatoes, etc. Often there is a lot of wasted airspace in these, adding oxidative potential, and limiting storage capacity (easier to pack vac-packs into a bucket than boxes).
The foregoing are simplified storage strategies for med-LT storage. As mentioned, they are not mutually exclusive, but both should utilize vacuum packing AND oxygen absorber packets in most cases, either in-bag, or in-bucket (or other sealed alternative[s] storage), to promote extended shelf-life. Keep in mind that your shelf-life corresponds to your food shelf-life, and so, don't cheap-out here.
2. Freeze-dried/Dehydrated Stocks:
These food stocks tend to be more expensive, and less-available, locally. They add variety and extend nutritive complexity to your diet, as well as adding flavor and viability. Claims of 20-year storage are fairly common, but may not be realistic.
However, they have a real place in any storage plan; many items that one needs to prepare other foods will come in such forms, and are readily stored for LT/MT/ST uses.
Although some of these are offered as 'meals', I personally would skip this concept, and simply order up a quantity of necessities (keep-it-simple-stupid). Such items include:
Powdered/freeze-dried/dehydrated milk, eggs (whole egg = optimal), butter, 'TVP' (textured &/or flavored vegetable protein--bacon, pork, beef, etc), cheese, coffee, creamer, and fruits (bananas/berries/etc.)
These are often needed for extending and flavoring other foods, and/or in preparing other dried- or powdered-form foods like biscuit, bread, and pancake mixes, and so on (with water). Powdered or freeze-dried eggs can be flavored with both cheese and milk and bacon bits (or flavored TVP) for increased palatability, for example. These items will store LT, and without refrigeration, in more compact form. I believe there is a wide variety of such foods available, so shop around, but don't get carried away (remember limited storage space!).
Such foods are often available in mylar/bags/cans; getting this stuff in bulk or in #10 cans might save some serious green, and can always be repacked into more realistic/discrete quantities, using your vacuum packer, etc (see above). I plan on getting a quantity of whole eggs, milk, butter, and ham/bacon-flavored TVP, at minimum. Given I am a 'coffee' nut, and that coffee takes up a LOT of space, I will likely invest some time into getting some freeze-dried stocks as well...
Right now, my goal is to get a 1 year supply of decent food stored up, and to get a vacuum sealer/supplies to get some of that into extended storage, as well as putting up some meats for ST freezing. I realize now that stocking up and freezing is really fail, without vac-packing, and even storing a lot of dry goods. Rotation of stock is essential, and storing foods that one actually eats is optimal. Might be doing some video blogging on this soon, though likely post Xmas...
GL and happy prepping! ;) Doit!
GT
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